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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.